The "Sunk Ski Procedure": How to Save Your Jet Ski Engine After It Sinks!

It’s the nightmare scenario every rider dreads. You’re pushing it a little too hard, the ski hooks an edge, and before you know it, you’re in the water looking at the bottom of your hull.

Whether you flipped it during a freestyle session or a hose burst while you were at the sandbar, once water gets inside a 4-stroke engine, the clock is ticking. At Odyssea, we call this the "Golden Hour." If that water is from the Maryland coastal bays, you aren't just dealing with a "wet" engine—you are dealing with a saltwater bomb. If that salt sits in your motor, wiring harnesses, or electronics for even a few hours, it will create flash rust, lock up the motor, and fry your electrical system.

Here is the official "Odyssea Sunk Ski Procedure"—the technical protocol we use in our shop to save engines and seasons.

Step 1: Flip it Back (The Right Way)

Every PWC has a specific direction it must be flipped to prevent water from the exhaust from pouring directly into the intake.

• Look at the Rear: There is usually a sticker on the back of the ski (near the tow hook) with an arrow.

• The Rule: Always flip it in the direction of that arrow. If you flip it the wrong way, you are virtually guaranteed to flood the cylinders and the airbox.

Step 2: Get it to Land & Drain

Do not try to start the engine in the water if you suspect the hull is flooded. You run the risk of hydro-locking—where the pistons try to compress water (which doesn't compress), snapping connecting rods in a split second.

• Tow the ski slowly back to the ramp.

• Once on the trailer, pull the drain plugs immediately.

• Fresh Water Decontamination: While the hull is draining, use a garden hose to gently spray down the entire engine compartment to rinse off salt water and grime from the engine block and wiring harnesses.

Step 3: Decontaminate the Intake System

Water gets trapped inside the intake manifold or airbox, and if you don't clear it first, the engine will just keep "ingesting" that water every time you crank it.

• Remove the Intake: We pull the manifold off Sea-Doos and the airbox off Yamahas/Kawasakis.

• Wash & Dry: Wash the component out with fresh water to remove salt, then dry it completely (we use a high-pressure air hose).

• Intake Valves: With the manifold off, spray fogging oil directly into the intake valves to protect the top end. Reinstall the dry manifold/airbox before attempting to start.

Step 4: The Spark Plug "Geyser" & The Odyssea Tilt

1. Remove Plugs: Pull all ignition coils and spark plugs.

2. The Tilt: Slightly tilt the PWC back on the trailer. This forces any remaining water to the rear cylinder.

3. The First Crank: Hit the start button for 3–5 seconds. Water will shoot out of the spark plug holes like a geyser. Keep your face away!

4. Repeat: You will do this until the water slows down

Step 5: The "Compression Trick" (The Pro Move)

Once the geyser slows down, we use compression to force the remaining water out.

1. Clean Your Old Plugs: Take your old spark plugs and clean them with brake cleaner.

2. Step-by-Step Sealing: Once you see no more water shooting from the front cylinder, install the cleaned old plug.

3. Force the Water Out: This forces the engine's compression to the remaining open cylinders. Repeat this for Cylinder 2 once it stops shooting water.

4. The Start: At this stage, the PWC may actually fire up. This is good! Running the engine helps heat up and blow out the remaining moisture.

5. Repeat: Continue this process until your PWC starts, and no water is shooting out of the last open cylinder

Step 6: Managing "Water Fouling"

Expect to pull your plugs multiple times during this process. They will get "water fouled" (wet and unable to spark) as the engine clears itself out.

• Keep cleaning the plugs with brake cleaner and reinstalling until the engine runs smoothly and the "misting" stops.

• Final Swap: Once the PWC is running and sounds normal, replace all spark plugs with brand-new NGKs.

Step 7: The Electronics & Fuse Box Audit

Depending on how high the water got inside the hull, your electrical system may be compromised.

• The Fuse Box: If the water reached the top half of the engine, you must open the fuse box. Even if the lid has a seal, water can find its way in.

• Dry & Protect: Pull the fuses and relays, dry the box out completely, and spray all contacts with CRC 6-56. If salt water sits on those electrical pins, they will corrode and cause "ghost" electrical issues for the rest of the year.

Step 8: The "CRC Shield" & Multi-Oil Change

• The Coating: Spray the entire engine compartment—including the block and all wiring harnesses—real well with CRC 6-56. This stops salt from eating your electronics.

• The Multi-Oil Change: Water and oil create a "milky" sludge. You will likely need to change the oil and filter 3 or 4 times in a row. Repeat until the oil on the dipstick comes out clear and amber, not milky.

⚠️ Stuck at the Dock? Don't Guess.

If your ski is currently full of water and you aren't 100% sure how to pull the manifold or clear the cylinders, stop.

For Locals (Ocean Pines/OC): Get that ski to the shop immediately. We have high-volume extractors and the "CRC Armor" to perform a professional recovery and save your engine from the salt.

Tap to CALL for Your Emergency Rescue Now

Justin’s Pro-Tip:

Prevention is cheaper than a rescue. Check your Carbon Ring and your Drain Plugs before every launch. If you haven't seen our guide on why Sea-Doos sink, read it here: The Sea-Doo Carbon Ring: What It Is & Why It Could Sink Your Ski.