Buying a Used Sea-Doo? The Ultimate Inspection & Buyer's Guide
Winter is the best time to buy a used jet ski. Prices are lower, sellers are motivated, and you have all off-season to get it ready for the water.
But the used market—especially in a saltwater environment like Ocean City—is a minefield. For every "pristine, garage-kept" gem, there are five skis with hidden corrosion, salt-clogged cooling systems, or a history of being sunk.
As mechanics, we tell our customers this one golden rule: Condition is more important than the model.
A "high-maintenance" performance ski that was flushed and sprayed with CRC 6-56 after every ride is a better buy than a "reliable" entry-level ski that sat with salt water in the hull for three years.
If you are shopping this winter, here is our honest, "shop-floor" advice on what to look for and how to pick the right machine for your family.
📥 Going to look at a ski? Take this with you.
Don't try to remember all these steps while you're standing in a seller's driveway.
We've turned this entire guide into a Free Printable Inspection Checklist. It has checkboxes for the hull, engine, oil, and water test so you don't miss a single red flag.
Download it, print it, and bring it with you.
Watch the Video: What to Look For (Inspection Tips)
I recently filmed a quick walk-around showing you exactly what I look for when a used ski rolls into the shop. Watch this before you head out to meet a seller!
Part 1: Choosing the Right Ski for Your Lifestyle
Before you look at a single ski, you need to know what you want to do with it. Don't just buy the first one you see. Ask yourself these questions:
Is it for the kids or just playing around?
Look for: Rec-Lite Models (like the Spark)
Why: These are lightweight, affordable, and incredibly fun to throw around. They are durable (Polytec hull) and less intimidating for new riders or teenagers.
Will you be towing tubes or carrying the family?
Look for: Recreation Models (like the GTI/GTX series)
Why: You need a larger, more stable fiberglass hull. These typically have more storage, a 3-seat capacity, and enough power to tow a tube without struggling. This is the "Goldilocks" category for most first-time owners.
Do you crave speed and luxury?
Look for: Performance/Luxury Models (like the RXT, RXP or GTX)
Why: If you want to ride in rougher ocean water comfortably or hit 65+ MPH, you need the big ST3 hull and the bigger engines.
The Trade-Off: Understand that "Performance" means higher maintenance. Superchargers require rebuilding, and complex electronics mean more things to maintain.
Part 2: The "Deal-Breaker" Inspection Checklist
Once you find a potential ski, ignore the shiny wax job. You need to look deeper. Here is what we check in the shop.
1. Service Records are King
The Ask: "Do you have receipts?"
Why: A seller who keeps a folder of receipts for oil changes, winterizations, and wear ring replacements likely took care of the machine. "I did it myself" is fine, but ask what they used. If they didn't use marine-grade oil or filters, that's a red flag.
Questions to Ask the Seller:
Has the carbon ring been replaced?
Has the jet pump been inspected?
How often has the oil and oil filter been changed?
Have the spark plugs been changed?
If it has a Super Charger, how many hours are on it?
How many hours are on it? (low hours are NOT always good!) The national average is 30 hrs per season. Older PWCs with low hours can sometimes mean they have been sitting and possibly “rotting.”
2. The Saltwater Corrosion Check
The Look: Open the seat and look at the engine.
Good: It looks oily or greasy (coated with anti-corrosion spray). Clamps are shiny or slightly dull.
Bad: White, crusty powder on bolts and hose clamps. Large flakes of rust on the engine block. Green corrosion on electrical connectors.
The Deal-Breaker: If the engine looks like a rusty anchor, walk away. Salt has likely eaten into wiring harnesses and seized bolts that will cost thousands to fix.
3. The "Milky Oil" Check
The Action: Pull the dipstick.
The Verdict: If the oil looks like chocolate milk, STOP. Do not buy it. That means water is in the engine (blown gasket, cracked block from freezing, or it was sunk). That engine is toast.
If the oil is black, then it has not had an oil change recently
4. The Test Drive (Non-Negotiable)
Why: A ski can run perfectly on the trailer hose but fail under load in the water.
What to feel for:
Does it hit top RPM/Speed? (If it revs high but moves slow, the wear ring is shot).
Does it vibrate? (Bent driveshaft or impeller).
Does it take on water? (Check the bilge after the ride—a leaking carbon ring can sink you).
Tip: If the seller refuses a test drive, walk away.
Part 3: The Best Insurance? A Shop Inspection.
If you don't know what you're looking at, bring it to a pro.
What we do in a Pre-Purchase Inspection: $300
Compression Check: We pull the plugs and test the engine's compression. This is the only way to know the true health of the cylinders and pistons.
Computer Scan: We hook it up to the dealer software to check for "hidden" fault codes, true engine hours, and history.
Pump & Carbon Ring Check: We inspect the drive system for wear that you can't see from above.
Buying Local? Ask the seller to meet you at Odyssea Jet and Prop Shop. We can look it over before you hand over the cash.
Contact us at 410-973-2890 to schedule an inspection
Smart buyers save money. Do your homework!
